Curly hair isn’t just beautiful – it’s also a completely different structure which needs different care. If you’ve also felt personally attacked by your hair, you’re not alone. Time to level up your routine to the next level, so lock in and take notes from the expert herself Jade Pointon.
To begin, let’s make one thing clear. We all know curly hair is not just dry and frizzy, despite the misconceptions some people hold.
But, if your hair does however feel like it’s missing something, it’s most likely missing the right type of moisture and products that match its density and porosity, says Jade, owner of Thriv Salon in Cardiff.
“Without managed frizz you can’t get lovely volume, so if you see somebody with really voluminous hair, then they obviously have a natural frizzy or coarser texture to their hair which gives them that volume.”
How can cell structure affect hair care?
We’re not here to give you a biology lesson, we promise, but it’s important to understand the cell structure in order to know how to look after your hair.
“With the structure of hair, it grows from oval or asymmetrical follicles, causing the hair to spiral or curve, as opposed to straight hair that is round in shape. Curly hair tends to have a more raised cuticle layer, which means it’s more porous (has lots more holes)”.
Jade says this raised layer from twisted strands means that curly hair has more difficulty retaining moisture, since the oil cannot travel directly down the hair shaft easily like it would on straighter hair.
Porosity and Density: Explained
Hair is often characterised widely by the numbering system to describe its type, ranging from 1A, straight, to 4C, coily. Within these four sections, subtypes A, B, and C describe the increasing level of curl.
However, Jade says the way to finding the best routine for each person looking to serve with a new routine, should be addressing other things instead.
“I’m quite passionate when it comes to the numbering system, I don’t think the letter and numbers are enough for the variety of textures we have around the world. You can’t fit eight billion people into a box of 12.” she said. “It’s as simple as density, lifestyle, porosity, how your hair is behaving in its current state, and what YOU want the outcome to be.”
Here’s an easy guide to porosity, as told by Jade.
For jade, when treating curly hair, what matters the most is what YOU want for your hair and what your hair needs, rather than forcing a change of wash frequency.
Read more about Curly Hair Routines here: How to slay a main character moment with your curl routine – Radiance
Got low porosity hair? Listen up
With lower porosity hair, the cuticles are tightly packed and lie flat, so you want to be using water-based products and incorporating heat as well.
The key is using lighter base products, because if you’re still using something super heavy, it’s just going to sit on the surface.
If it’s the winter time, says Jade, you could put a microfiber towel or bonnet on the radiator and then obviously use anything that’s going to keep the head feeling warm.
This helps to lift that cuticle slightly.
Common Mistakes
We know that shampoos and conditioners labelled “curly hair” might seem to be perfect, but Jade says this doesn’t automatically mean they’re well suited for your hair.
A key component of knowing if products can be good for your hair is checking the ingredients, and Jade says a good routine should only consist of 4-5 ingredients.
She says there is no universal routine, rather focus on what works for you, your schedule and your style goals.
Otherwise, you risk weighing the hair down.
Helpful Ingredients
You don’t have to be scared of silicones – the ones to look out for should be water-soluble, which are good for curls. Light ingredients such as aloe vera, coconut oil, shea butter all help with curls.
- Water-soluble silicones (okay for curls)
- Glycerin (good in moderate humidity)
- Shea Butter (locks in moisture)
- Lightweight oils: Avocado, Jojoba, Argan
- Natural humectants: Honey, Agave
- Panthenol (shine and elasticity)
- Hydrolyzed proteins (strengthen damaged or high-porosity hair)
Ingredients to Avoid
- Drying sulfates (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate)
- Non-water-soluble silicones (Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone)
- Drying alcohols (Isopropyl alcohol, SD alcohol) — but fatty alcohols like Cetyl and Stearyl are curl-friendly
- Parabens and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives (due to irritation and health concerns)
Deep Conditioning
Deep conditioning can be great for those with high porosity or specific hair needs, but it might be too heavy for some hair types.
It might be more needed after a change in environment, UV exposure, swimming, or colouring.
Debunking ‘Curly Hair’ products – Mousses, Gels, Creams
“A curl cream is going to give you moisture or help to enhance the curl type. A cast is where you’re going to set your hair. So if you think of your shampoo and conditioner being like putting your underwear on, and then your curl cream could be or if you’re going in with a double gel, putting your clothes on and then the gel is putting your coat on.” she said. “So we’re locking everything in and keeping us nice and warm. That’s basically what the gel does. That’s going to help to lock in the water. And nine times out of 10, your hair doesn’t always need the moisture content.”
Frizz? Just a lack of water
Getting rid of frizz is all about locking the water in, Jade says.
“Which is why gels are great. A stronghold mousse also helps really create and get that cast and lock that water in. Warm water will always help to reset the hair.”
Ultimately, what Jade says is true – understanding what your hair needs and how it fits into your routine is the key to great hair. You don’t need to make a hair routine with 100 products, make small changes that work for you!
